I was excited to be on the start line for this one, as it was one NZ Brevet I had not yet done. Also, the route would take me through some new terrain, including a couple of private farm sections. A fresh overcast morning greeted about 100 riders gathered on the shores of beautiful Lake Tekapo for a mid-morning roll out.
I was well stocked with supplies so I rode through Twizel and on toward Lake Ohau. It was about this time that I suddenly felt a bit flat, I backed off the pace a bit as I approached Omarama. I had been looking forward to riding over the Omarama saddle for the first time, but sadly I did not enjoy it too much. Greg Clarke, a fellow Irish man caught me near the summit and we rode more or less together to the Vulcan Hotel at St Bathans. Hot chips and Coke here and I was feeling better and ready to tackle the first private farm section.
Darkness descended as I rode alone through this valley crossing the twisting river many times. Eventually, I popped out on the highway that leads to Lindis Pass just before midnight. I decided to push on into the next private section, meaning I would have to get to Lake Hawea before stopping, as camping was not permitted in these sections. Thankfully I was feeling good as I climbed to about 1400 meters on Grandview Mountain. Unfortunately, I had no vista so I can only imagine the views down over the plains and Lake Hawea. A fast and rowdy single track brought me to the edge of the lake before I meandered into the village as the first light was embracing the distant skies.
I continued on the quiet trails all the way to Wanaka, waiting 15 minutes for the shop to open before continuing on towards Crown Range. I knew I would not be sleeping now, the Pisa Range loomed large in front of me as i churned my way up to almost 2,000 meters. The views up here were simply magnificent, I took a few moments to take it in, looking across at distant peaks in all directions. I was super happy to have my front suspension for the fast downhill that required all my focus and riding skills.
It was tempting to stop for a proper meal in Cromwell, but as so often is the case I just stopped at a service station that had limited options for a plant-based diet and to satisfy my hungry belly, I pushed on regardless.
Joe Nation was about 20kms ahead, the only rider in front of me and already eating into the climb up Old Woman’s Range. As I made my way up the long climb I noticed dark clouds and shower squalls in the surrounding mountains. Soon I was on the exposed plateau just over 1600 meters and sure enough the weather closed in quicker than I expected. I knew the route stayed at this elevation for over 20kms and this was not the place to be in challenging weather. Visibility evaporated, the wind picked up and the cold rain was smashing into me, the trail was now a slippery mud and my brakes were failing. All this compounded to slow my progress. I had seen a sign earlier for Boundary Hut. I decided I would aim to get there to get warm and dry out, unfortunately, I had missed the turn so I pushed on into the abyss.
I took out my phone, the touchscreen was very difficult to use in these conditions with no respite from the driving wind and rain. I looked at my Topo GPS app, the descent of the mountain would start in about 5 km and there was a hut a couple of km back and off route. As I stood there in the darkness high up on this mountain with the weather completely enveloping me, I began to shiver uncontrollably. At this moment I knew I had to go back to the hut. I turned back, something I really dislike to do in a race, I found the turnoff and gingerly made my way down to Nicholson’s hut after dropping some 200 meters. Initially, I could not see it until eventually I spotted the hut across a fast-flowing river. I got inside and changed into dry clothes, done star jumps to warm up and got in my sleeping bag. Thankfully I did get warm and slept until 7 am, looking outside the skies were grey but the rain had stopped. How grateful I was for this small tin shed.
Looking back I felt I made the right decision, even though the descent was close, it was a long way down to Clyde with a few locked gates. I think I would have been super cold and miserable
I was craving coffee and hot food but decided to push past Clyde on towards Alexandra on the rail trail. I was also trying to organise the jet boat for the trip down Lake Roxburgh, unfortunately, I was unable to get through so therefore did not know a departure time as this had to be pre-arranged. I reluctantly decided to ride the road section around the lake. I still had no coffee or decent food and was feeling the effects of last nights mountain experience, the hills and headwinds on this section were a challenge.
I stopped in Roxburgh for a meal and long-awaited coffee and then started to enjoy the riding after that. I had now dropped back to fourth place, Matt and Greg had passed me early morning as I slumbered in the hut refuge and Joe Nation was powering ahead relentlessly.
In Lawrence, I decided to book a room in Mosgiel, a further 80 odd km ahead. I was familiar with the next section passing Lake Mahinerangi, I was feeling better now and looking forward to a good sleep in a bed. Before sleep at the motel, I had to change my brake pads front and back, these had diminished last night in the mud and grit.
The next day required climbing legs, starting with a long climb up to Swampy Summit, and it certainly was a swampy descent before moving into quiet forestry roads and eventually onto the coast north of Dunedin.
Apparently I missed a resupply option in Karitane, so had to push on with what I had. The hills got steeper and drier on the rollercoaster Ramrock road. After a long day, I made it to Ranfurly with time to resupply at the Four Square. Looking north the dark clouds looked ominous, as Dansys Pass loomed. I was not looking forward to another cold and wet night on a mountain, but as usual in these events, I pushed on. A few kilometres from Danseys Pass the rain started to fall and became much heavier as went over the top. The rain continued before easing as I popped out at Duntroon. Spotting a fancy new electronic toilet block, I decided to take a break, dry out and get warm.
Soon I was on the move again, the rain had stopped, and like the boys ahead of me, we were charging through the night. Up the long Hakataramea valley, the sleep monsters were circling and I did succumb to a couple of power naps. The sunrise was spectacular as I approached Hakataramea Pass with less than 50 km to go to the finish at Tekapo.
I knew early on the previous day that I simply did not have the legs to chase hard even though Greg and Matt were not that far ahead. I was happy to ride at my own pace and enjoy this spectacular part of the country.
A few people were at the Lakeside church to welcome me in mid-morning, which was very nice. A catch-up over breakfast and coffee was a great way to wrap up this Great Southern Brevet experience, 1080kms completed in just over 4 days.
A super nice and challenging route certainly delivered a fantastic bike-packing adventure.
