The Tour Aotearoa, born in 2016 and now running for the second time in February 2018 with over 600 adventurous bike packers registered to start in six different waves
Pre Ride Bike
After pulling out of the 2016 event after 4 days, with a painful knee injury and six weeks later going back to complete the whole course, I had no hesitation in signing up to do this beautiful bike ride through this beautiful land.
I decided to start on February 14th in the third wave, as it meant I could spend my wedding anniversary with my wife Mary Jo ( we got married on the 13 Feb 07, anti-Valentine’s :)) It also meant that I would only be away from our business for two weekends all going well.
The first wave departed on the 10th Feb, riders had to endure some heavy rains in Northland and through Auckland and flooded roads as I drove north were evidence of this. Excited nervous energy was prevalent at the Lighthouse car park at the very northern tip of the land of the long white cloud., GPS and spot tracker on and we were on our way at midday.
Overcast conditions, some rain spots and a favourable wind greeted us on Day one. I found myself riding by myself down a mile beach as Carl van den Heuvel sped off into the mist. I enjoyed spinning my rhythm on the hard-pack sand. Getting off the beach at Ahipara, an interesting event occurred as I pulled into the local shop, a violent road rage incident before my eyes. Two cars came to a screeching halt in the car park, a big guy screaming, jumped out of his car and was attempting to get at the driver in the other car . He got the door open and punched the guy sitting in the driver’s seat. This guy’s veins were popping with anger. Thankfully the guy managed to get the door shut and sped off swerving down the road. These guys need to ride bicycles and chill the hell out!
After that unexpected drama, I was riding into the nice quiet country roads. I made the last ferry to Rawene with time to spare and Carl arrived just in the nick of time. A quick resupply as the rain started to gently fall and continued towards the Waipoua Forest on my own. Our third photo control point with the incredibly huge Tane Mahuta Kauri tree, it was now dark and nobody else was around. After riding out of the forest and 230kms done I camped up down a little side road for our mandatory 6- hour stop.
I was moving again at about 5 am on Day 2, more quiet roads brought me to Dargaville for a welcome coffee and toast, vegetarian options did not exist in this particular cafe !! A couple of days earlier the boat that took riders across the Kaipara harbour broke down, so now we had to ride the alternate route and catch a bus, which worked out as the equivalent kilometres as the other route. I managed to catch this bus with little time to spare, otherwise it would have been 100km extra cycling or waiting 7 hours for the next bus. Today was very hot and unfortunately I was navigating through Auckland in peak traffic. It was nice to finally inhale fresh air out of the city. I eventually camped in a roadside field near Miranda.
I was now starting to pass riders from the previous wave start, it was nice to catch up with a brief chat. A refuel at Mata Mata and then onwards via the Waikato river trails to Mangakino, arriving at the busy Four Square shop at 6.30ish.I was feeling really good as as I rode towards the Timber Trail entrance as the sun dropped for another day. My sleeping location tonight was at the centre of the north island, another photo control point.
I must have hit snooze a couple of times this morning, but it was still dark as I stumbled out of my tent. Shortly after setting off, I was into the 70kms of the Timber Trail, mostly single track with a high point at Mt Pureora at 1000 meters, this was super fun. At Taumarunui, it was coffee and food time and also a phone call to River Adventures to book the jet boat to get me to Pipiriki. As it was a further 100 km to the pickup landing, 7 am the next day was my only option. Nice quiet country roads and a torrential downpour brought me past Whakahoro and ready for the climb up the Kaiwhakauka track. The rain made the push-up tougher and the descent off the other side more perilous. Eventually, I camped up not far from the Bridge to Nowhere under a big tree for a much-needed rest.
Day 5 was the beautiful jet boat trip then a 77km sealed road ride to Whanganui for resupply. It was another very hot day riding the scenic backcountry roads through the farmlands. I stopped at about 11 pm at Ashhurst and set up camp beside the trees in the sports domain feeling good and happy with my progress I slept soundly.
My Day 6 mission was to get to Wellington to catch the 8 pm ferry to Picton. This was now more urgent as I knew that sailings could be potentially cancelled the next day because of an approaching storm system, remnants of Cyclone Gita which had devastated Tonga and was moving towards New Zealand. It was Time Trail Time 🙂
Kevin Crowley came out to ride with me before Martinborough and then a good friend from past NZ Brevets, Cliff Clermont also came to ride with me. I made my ferry with time to spare, said goodbye to Cliff and looked forward to the rest of the ferry. I spent an incredible amount of money on food and drinks once on the boat. it was nice to relax and chill on the quiet crossing although sleep did not come easily.
Heading towards the Queen Charlotte Drive after midnight, it was unfortunate to be riding this lovely section in the dark, at least I had the roads to myself. The forecasted rain was holding off to this point but very dark foreboding clouds were gathering with intent to the west. I had been over the Maungatapu saddle 4 or 5 times previously, so I knew what to expect, A rough steep climb and a rough steep descent !! The rains did indeed begin as I approached the bottom of the climb. All my waterproof gear was on as I pushed my laden bike up towards the top in darkness and now torrential downpour. It must have been somewhere between 4 and 5 am when I reached the top, briefly stopping to put on an extra layer underneath my jacket as I was now cold as well. I got to Nelson just before 7 am, really cold and wet as the rain continued . I found a cafe, got changed, ordered food and coffee, dried out, ordered more food and coffee and started to feel normal again. It was still raining, and the storm was not due to hit until later in the day, so I made the decision to move on. Waterproofs on again and out in the elements towards Richmond and Wakefield. The rain gained intensity during the 43km between Wakefield and Tapawera, the gravel logging roads were sodden and slushy, this was a slog that drained my legs of energy as the storm felt like it had landed. I gratefully got a basic cabin at the campground in Tapawera and dried out once again, it was not long after 4 pm.
After going to the shop and organising my gear and bikes I went on to have my longest stop of this Tour Aotearoa and also my longest sleep. On waking the next morning, I was surprised that it was not raining, I got organised and started riding, admittedly I was pretty groggy for a few hours. Maybe too much sleep ??
After passing through Murchison, the heavens opened again as I made my way over the gorgeous Maruia Saddle. A long day interspersed with heavy rain ended with me getting a cheap cabin behind the pub at Ikamatua
Day 9 was brighter and I appreciated being dry. Breakfast in Greymouth and onto the Wilderness Trail , Hokitika and on to Franz Josep Glacier Township. It was after 10 pm, and after a huge day, I decided to stealth camp here. I rolled out my mat and sleeping bag on the deck of a cafe, undercover and hidden from view, sleep came easily tonight.
Day 10 began in the morning darkness with the short sharp climbs in the 23kms to Fox Glacier Township, a great early morning lung expander! A quick breakfast here and ready for the long sealed road section down the coast to Haast. Another massive day, 304kms got me to Wanaka with just enough time to grab a pizza and camp up under trees in a park on the way out of town.
I knew that if I wanted to get to Bluff today, it would be 323 km, Iwas determined to make this happen and I was feeling strong and ready. I had time for a coffee with my friend Lukas in Queenstown before getting the Earnslaw tourist steamboat across Lake Wakatipu to Walter Peak. Some lovely quiet gravel riding through here and a nice tailwind meant I was making good time. Some not-so-exciting roads took me to Invercargill and beyond towards the finish at Bluff. My journey of over 3,000km had ended just before midnight, my friend Fraser was there to pick me up and bring me back to his house for food, a shower and sleep in a comfy bed.
I am so grateful for this trip, it was a wonderful adventure with so many memories. It had some challenges also, these are part of the story. Thank you to the Kennett Brothers for devising this route and keeping it updated for bike packers from all over the world to use at any time. It showcases what New Zealand has to offer.
I am truly grateful to my ever-supporting wife and our business and main sponsor Vibrant Living Retreat in Hanmer Springs , NZ https://www.vibrantliving.co.nz/
Thank you for your time…
Keep on Pedalling 🙂
Eketahuna, North Island
Being There, Got the Tattoo
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