I arrived back in Gore after 4 am on my third night of the Tuatara 1000, there was nobody around, and the streets were so quiet, that I took some moments to take it in. It had been a long day since 5 am after leaving Taieri Mouth campground on the windswept east coast, south of Dunedin City, some 300-odd kilometres back. A few power naps during the night helped me to the finish, completing the 1072 kilometres in under 3 days. I sat under the huge Trout statue that is a landmark in the centre of town, happy to be finished and slightly disappointed that I fell off the pace on the last day with Martin, Matt and Myles coming in ahead of me to make up the podium. It was time to get some sleep.

The Tuatara 1000 Adventure started at 7 am three days before right under this giant fish on a cool damp Southland morning. The riders taking on the race format were first to roll out heading in an anti-clockwise direction. There is also the Brevet options, same as the race format only that riders are required to take a 6 hour stop in every 24 hours. Some went anti-clockwise, others clockwise and there was also a shorter 500km option. Within a couple of days, there was bike packers spread out all across the region, it was awesome to see.

 

This event was created by Andy Chalmers, who grew up in the area. Andy has a huge passion for Bikepacking and for giving back to the community. To weave a route that takes in all his favourite places from childhood is a very neat accomplishment and supports the smaller communities in these times with practically zero international tourism for the past 2 years. Bikepacking folk can spend a fair dash of cash on food, drinks etc as we meander with intent through the countryside riding bikes through beautiful natural landscapes.

We rolled out into the murky mist with enthusiasm, gravel was not long coming and neither were the hills. I was happy to be wearing my waterproof jacket as the rain continued to get heavier, the gravel roads were good as we pushed on over the rolling hills. I and 5 others, Martin Strelka, Matt Zenovich, Reon Nolan, Myles Gibson and Nick Kennedy had formed a spread-out group ( no drafting permitted here), although it was not long before Matt pushed off the front.

The skies began to clear and the rain ceased, the hills and the distant mountains made themselves known as I approached the small village of Mossburn and refilled my water bottles at the same time as Reon, Myles and Martin.  Te Anau was next, a bigger town and the gateway to the majestic and wild Fiordland National Park. The mountains loomed larger as blue skies peeped through the clouds. A quick resupply before hitting the fun and fast Lakeside trails that connect Te Anau to Manapouri.

Myles was having some bad luck as I passed him twice so far as he fixed punctures. Reon passed me on the sealed road out of Manapouri at a good pace into a headwind, Martin was a bit further back, and I would not see another rider all day. Riding now in a southerly direction, I reached Tuatapere just after 8 pm with 305kms in the legs and in third position on the road. I was feeling good and looking forward to riding into the night. A quick resupply at the local Four Square and it was into some faster roads as darkness descended on Day one. It was a shame to be riding in the dark and missing the scenery as the route brought us out to some picturesque bays on the south coast.

It was a beautiful calm night, the roads were quiet except for when I  was met by a large number of cows walking towards me, they occupied most of the road and stared blankly at me, probably surprised and blinded by my light as I inched past them trying not to spook them. I’m pretty sure these cows were not meant to be on the road, a gate must have been left open somewhere. This encounter woke me up sufficiently and gave me an extra boost of energy to get me to Riverton at 370 km as midnight approached.

Still feeling good, I decided to push on, aiming to get to Invercargill, I arrived there soon after 2 am, and now it was time to sleep. Just inside Queens Park, I found a super nice Bivy spot at the sports ground, I had a verandah, a power outlet and clean water. Luxury for a bikepacker after a huge day. This was stealth camping at its best and a decent sleep was had before my alarm rudely woke me at 5 am. I gathered my thoughts and my gear before moving out of the park in the crisp cool morning air.

Sunday morning city life was quiet and I was glad to see a service station that was open just off route. Hot coffee was consumed as the day brightened and I rolled out of town

As the route gets closer to the coast once again we go through a very interesting place that has heaps of empty fishermen’s huts along the lagoons and Rivers, navigating some sandy patches and boardwalks kept me alert. On last year’s race, I came through here on my last night, super fatigued and on the verge of Hallucinations. Riding past these old empty and rundown shacks was very weird with sleep deprivation setting in, this time however it was nice to see the place in Daylight.

 

Back on the main road and heading towards Slope Point, a now familiar place, as it’s the finishing point of the Tour Te Waipounamu which I completed only weeks before. Matt was still up the road and Myles had passed me, very impressive considering the time he lost fixing his tyres/flats on day one. Martin was not far behind. This was shaping up to be an epic day riding, now moving in a north easterly direction up the coast. The day was sunny with blue skies enhancing the beauty of the Catlins region, dense forests, rugged coastline and stunning beaches, I need to come back here at a slower pace.

Owaka at 610 kilometres into the race was a welcome resupply and the ever-reliable Four Square provided the goods. Although said goods don’t always have much variety from a plant-based diet perspective. In events like this it’s mostly Bananas, salted nuts, protein bars etc, sometimes I will get wraps and Hummus/Avocado, this however is a bit more time-consuming, but nice to satisfy the Real food craving.

Along the banks of the mighty Clutha River, leading into  Balclutha town before heading towards the coast again as the sun was lowering in the sky beyond. I decided to book a cabin at Taieri Mouth Campground a further 90 km up the coast with a promise of hills. The gravel roads were good and hills indeed did come before I eventually arrived at the cabin about 1 am. I deliberately did not check the tracker, I don’t even know if there was reception but I knew this was a crucial decision. Would the other racers ahead stop to sleep? or push on to the end? Should I just keep riding?  At this moment I felt a sleep would benefit me for the final push on Day 3.

It was after 5 am when I departed the comfort of the small cabin somewhat later than I would have liked. Soon the hills were there to greet my day as the course went inland before popping back out to the coast. The sunrise was spectacular, unfortunately, my legs were not as spectacular. I moved steadily over the hills towards the city of Dunedin, scanning the streets for a coffee shop. I did pass one and did not stop deciding there would be another for sure. Unfortunately, there was nt and before long I was heading out to the Peninsula without a caffeine hit. Boo!   After the Peninsula loop, there was a strong headwind heading towards Port Chalmers before moving inland to some serious hills in the suburbs of the city.

I had cleared the city by lunchtime and was happy to be moving out to the countryside once more, a resupply at Outram propelled me towards the beautiful climb towards Waipouri Falls and then past Lake Mahinerangi through rolling hills.

After what felt like never-ending hills that all looked the same I rolled into Lawrence about 9 pm, the last resupply before the final 100kms to Gore. A look at the tracker showed Martin had taken the win, Matt was a close second and Myles was some 55kms further ahead of me.

I was determined to get it done and set off into the dark, The hours passed under skies that were gathering some dark clouds. The roads were quiet except for an insane amount of possums and rabbits. My full attention was required, especially on the descents, speed had to be curtailed as hitting one of these creatures would end in a mess. It didn’t help that they changed their mind and direction often, going left, then right and then left again before scurrying off into the roadside. Eventually, the lights of Gore appeared from high in the hills on Mountain Road, the Southland town, an oasis amongst the hilly farmlands. My Tuatara adventure was complete.

New Zealand is blessed now with many Bikepacking events all over the land, some crossover so you have to pick the ones you want to do to fill your summer. A look on the tracking site Maprogress during the summer months will inevitably have hundreds of bikepackers traversing Aotearoa in all directions, covering vast distances on mainly quiet backroads and gravel tracks. A truly amazing way to explore New Zealand by bike.

Big Thanks to Andy for putting all this together

Grateful for the ongoing support from Vibrant Living Retreat, Binary Bicycles, Apidura, Hub Cycles, Julbo Eyewear & Biomaxa