TOUR DIVIDE 2019

I knew once I finished the Tour Divide in 2017 that I would return . There I was once again lined up to start in 2019 . I was super excited for this race, I had such a good time racing down the Divide in 2017 , even after a broken derailleur held me up on Day one . I was ready , i was feeling fit after months of preparation . The only niggle I had was sore ribs from a crash on the Heaphy Track , back in New Zealand about 3 weeks before . Let the Adventure commence !!

The start list for the Grand Depart in Banff on June 14th had some strong contenders, Many names I recognised from Ultra Endurance races around the world .This was exciting to be racing against some of the best . Like in 2017 , I stayed in Canmore for 4 nights pre race away from the hustle and bustle of Banff 20kms away . I hung out a bit with Tour Divide veteran Kiwi, Geof Blance , he was aiming for his third finish , this time on a single speed.

On Friday the 14th June I rode the 20km to Banff, got some coffee and food and got to the start area for the tail end of the briefing from Crazy Larry . There was a massive feeling of excited energy , as riders nervously made final adjustments and some said goodbye to loved ones. I chatted briefly again with Geof and met another Kiwi Tony Le Sueur as Crazy Larry was about to lead us out to the trailhead .

Even though this race is over 4,000 kms and will take over two weeks , I wanted to be near the front at the start , just to get a clear run on the double track and settle into my own Rhythm. I did ride briefly and chat with Josh Kato , Sofiane Sehili, Nate Ginzton, Josh Ibbett, Kai Edel and a few others on that first day . As it turned out I was the second racer to reach Fernie that evening after 12 hours of riding . As I restocked at the 7 Eleven and chatted with a local newspaper reporter , Josh Kato rolled up in good spirits and happy with his day so far .

I rolled out of Fernie into the fading evening light , catching up with early pacesetter Josh Ibbett as we got further into the wilderness on good gravel roads. I rode with Josh for a while , eventually pulling away as he stopped to put on a jacket or something. I was now in the lead of the Tour Divide, WOW ! I got to Butts Cabin about 1am , there was a camp fire going and a guy was tucked up in his Bivvy nearby. We chatted briefly, and after him telling me he saw two Bears on Cabin Pass earlier and with the Hut empty , it was an easy decision to call it a night and get some sleep .About 330kms in the legs today . Josh arrived soon after. I did not sleep that well and it took me a while to get going in the morning , just as the first signs of light were appearing on Day 2.

bike racer turned trail ninja (Spencer Harding)

As I rode towards Cabin Pass in my sleepy groggy state I caught up with a rider , It was Lael Wilcox , She had Bivvied outside the Hut and was making an early start. Later as I rode with Josh Ibbett before the sun had climbed over the mountain peaks, we seen a large Wolf on the road, it stared at us before running ahead , stopping again , staring and eventually disappearing into the bush . As the hours ticked by and I climbed over Cabin and Galton Passes , I was feeling good, reaching the Canadian/US border just before 10.30am. Next stop was a resupply at Eureka , Montana after nearly 450km done from the start. Josh was here too , and as we demolished some Subway Sandwiches we realised that Sofiane and Josh Kato were ahead .Not long after leaving Eureka I had the first of many issues with my Garmin Etrex, I ended up going nearly one kilometre off route because my device , had stopped receiving satellite signal . This happened almost every other day during the race , it would lose signal , scramble all data and proved to be an annoyance . The only way I could get it to work was to turn it off for a few minutes and then back on. Not Ideal .

I went over a couple of more passes within the Flathead National Forest and through some more high density Grizzly bear areas .I was feeling good, the weather was nice and the scenery was stunning . I did not see any Bears or any other racers for the rest of the day . After going by the outskirts of Whitefish I needed to resupply at Columbia Falls and decided to call it a day relatively early about 9pm .

I was feeling fresh for Day 3 , on my bike just about 4am and heading towards Swan River and onto Richmond Peak. I Caught up with Lael not long after she had arisen from her Bivvy , chatted a while before settling into our climbing rhythms . It was funny , she was shocked that i was the same person she had met early morning the previous day just after Butts Cabin. She said she did not recognise me, she said I looked way different , I said yeah , probably true, I was super sleepy and in a Half zombie state as well as very cold . Today I was more Human !!!

I seen two Bears , one brown one black within a couple of hours in the Swan River State Forest , Thankfully they just ran off into the bush . I was excited about this as I had not seen any in 2017. I loved the ride past Holland lake heading towards Richmond pass, it felt remote and rugged. It was a warm day with some gathering clouds towards the south east . I had a quick stop in Ovando , a quick chat with Kathy and a photo before heading out towards Huckleberry Pass. Just before the summit the heavens opened as a thunder storm rolled through .All my waterproofs were required for this storm . I got to Lincoln after dark a bit wet and cold , I contemplated continuing , but in the end I got a cheap motel room across the road and dried out . A good solid day with 325kms on the clock . Lael was the only Racer I seen today .

I was on my Bike before 3am on a Dark and Damp morning, I knew what lay ahead , Two passes Stemple and Priest .I made pretty good time to Helena ,arriving mid morning , a quick resupply , before heading up Grizzly Gulch Road and into the hills on a fine sunny Day . As I rode through the Deerlodge National Forest towards Butte , I was Starting to feel the effects of 3 big days before , my legs were lacking a bit of spark. I was happy to get to Butte just before a big Thunderstorm rolled through . Perfect timing for resupply and a rest . I left town feeling more energised , I just had to deal with some more annoying issues with my GPS Device , Thankfully I had a back up on my phone . After a 285 km day , close to 1am , I stopped at the Beaver Dam campground and slept in the Toilet Block for a few hours.

The Tour Divide and events like this are such a rollercoaster of emotions as one faces so many spectacular moments along with some incredibly challenging moments . The ability to move through these challenges can be the difference between success or perceived failure. Having Fun out there is the number one priority for me , if im not enjoying and embracing the experience , then whats the point in doing it . I dont do it to suffer , I do it to push my boundaries on every level, to explore , to experience and to hopefully inspire whilst all the time having Fun. An affirmation i use a lot is ” This too Shall Pass” . its very simple . Nothing will last forever , the headwind , the snow , the pain etc …

I was on the move before 5am , I was glad to be climbing to keep warm as I went up and over Fleecer Ridge . I rode the descent to Wise River with nearly all my gear on as it was freezing , I waited for the sun to slowly burn through the cold moisture laden fog . I stopped at High Country Lodge , id stayed here in 2017 , Russ is a Tour Divide Fan and a great bloke . He will prepare whatever you need for the long haul to Lima, the next resupply point. Here I found out that I was in third place as I signed the TD racers whiteboard at the Lodge .

Steve Halligan in Lincoln (Spencer Harding)

This Tour Divide I deliberately wanted to avoid checking Trackleaders too much , I just wanted to concentrate on my own race instead of focusing on where others were . This worked well for me and I was happily surprised at times when I did find out my position in the race .

On the Bannock road I caught up to Nate Ginzton, who apparently passed me as I was stopped at the Lodge . I would see Nate a few more times in the coming days as we caught , passed and swapped positions in this grand adventure. It was a nice day with favourable wind and I made good time to Lima. After stocking up at the service station shop in Lima with Nate , I was off into the beautiful evening light in less Lumpy terrain with more favourable winds . After a 325km day , I found a big Storage shed at Lakeview , perfect place to roll out my mat and get some sleep , Day 5 done.

Next morning I made a quick resupply at Island Park , some coffee and I was off for the 130km haul to Flagg Ranch . I was feeling good , feeling strong and really enjoying my race and everything it brings . People sometimes ask me , do i enjoy it , covering so much ground at speed . The simple answer is yes I do . I enjoy it all and i m able to absorb plenty as I move through at pace. Riding many hours in darkness does mean missing out on scenery , but the night sky can be spectacular and there are different animals running about.

As I got close to Togwotee Lodge just as darkness fell I seen some Moose off to the side of the trail. Seeing so much wildlife along this route is so amazing and gives me so much appreciation of Nature. I decided to have my first sit down meal at the Lodge and stayed the night. It was a perfect rest and reset after 5 big days .

Steve Halligan descending into Clark, Colorado. (Rugile Kaladyte)

Looking back I now know that Chris Seistrup overtook me here as I was stopped at the Lodge . I was up and away on first light , it was a cold morning . After climbing Togwotee Pass and turning into Brooks Lake Road I was faced with some hike a bike over the snow from the winter just gone .Further on I had my first crash of the Tour. I slipped out in the mud and ice and came down on my right side landing on my knee and hand. My hand came out the worst and was swollen immediately , weeks later an x ray revealed a cracked meta carpal . Further on I stopped at the Lava Mountain Lodge to assess my hand some more . It was painful and swollen but there was not much I could do . I rode down the highway before turning right and headed towards Union Pass . Union Pass had a decent amount of snow , and there was some hard work pushing the bike through this. The descent down the other side was treacherous in places due to the mud and water on the trails , made a bit more difficult because of my painful hand .

Another typical Tour Divide service station resupply stop in Pinedale ,then on towards Boulder before turning off onto the quiet roads that traverse this Beautiful Barren landscape , heightened by an amazing sunset . I had hoped to get to Atlantic City this evening , but the sleep monsters were kicking in . It was a very cold night , I had all my layers on and I was struggling to stay awake on the bike . I ve had this before , and in the past ive pushed on and its led to Hallucinations after days of sleep depravation and physical exertion . Its not safe and I dont recommend it . I knew Highway 28 was close and I knew there was a very nice warm modern Toilet block/ rest area not far after the turn off . It was after midnight , I was really cold, I wheeled my bike inside and found a large toilet cubicle room . Perfect , I set the alarm for 4.30 am and slept soundly after about 290kms today .

The Great Divide Basin area is a remarkable area to cycle through , and I was happy to be on my bike early morning catching the sunrise over this sparse landscape . The sun did eventually breakthrough the Clouds but it definitely was not as warm as 2017 when I rode through .I passed through Atlantic City very early , so no need to stop, and I was making my way to Wamsutter , 155km away . Wamsutter is basically a busy service stop for truckies, travellers and crazy Divide bikepackers . There are some motels here too . I was very happy to arrive here mid afternoon after a spectacular ride , get some food and drinks for the next stage .

At This point of the race, 2,300 kms , over half way , I was really happy with how it was going , i was feeling strong and having fun. The only issue that I had was a painful hand , which was really only a problem on the rougher stuff. Overall , Body Mind and Spirit was good , I was sitting in fourth place behind Sofiane Sehilli , Josh Kato and Chris Seistrup . Chasing hard through the Basin were Nate Ginzton , Lael Wilcox and Josh Ibbett .

Leaving the Noise and hustle and bustle of Wamsutter , and back out on the route I noticed Dark clouds forming to the south , some thunderstorms perhaps , common for this area! The route takes me through a huge area of gas and oil fields , there are long straight stretches of road and I was met with a strong headwind . Progress was slowed and energy was sapped . After crossing the highway , the headwind was less intense, there were continuous rolling hills and the roads were becoming increasingly muddy , clearly showing tyre tracks of the 3 riders in front of me. The headwind meant that I would not be making it to the Tour Divide Haven of Brush Mountain Lodge before midnight as i d hoped . Just on sunset on the top of one of these hills I met Eddie Clark , a photographer who has taken some amazing shots from many previous races. It was a brief chat as the temperatures were dropping fast and I was sure the rain was not far away .

As I was getting close to Savery a little time after sunset I stopped and wrapped up against the cold and turned my my lights on. I was flying around a corner when suddenly I hit a slippery mud section. My second crash felt worse than the one a couple of days before . This time I came down hard on my left side , hitting my knee, shoulder and Face . I sat there for a moment in the mud comprehending what just happened and checked that I could move my limbs. Nothing broken, blood dripping from a cut on my nose, I slowly picked myself up out of the mud , the cold air enhancing the stiffness now in my Body . Like many crashes , they happen so fast that it takes a while afterwards to process what happened. The handlebars were twisted , the chain was off and I lost a rear light . I got sorted and gingerly made my way down towards Savery , to finish one of my toughest and shorter distance days at about 190kms.

I must admit I was a bit groggy and Achy starting out Day 9. Of Course I had no idea the whole complexion of this epic race was about to change dramatically on this day . Further along the road I caught up with Nate , he had camped further back before Savery , we rode to Brush Mountain Lodge . I arrived to to the Lodge about 7am , it was so nice to see Kirsten again and receive her legendary loving Hug . She was busy making pancakes in the kitchen for a group of touring cyclists . The 3 Tour Divide racers ahead had passed through. Tour Divide veteran Billy Rice happened to be there , as we were eating breakfast he informed us that there is snow over the pass , an unseasonal cold front had moved through and it was not finished . Then as he was looking at Trackleaders he noticed Sofiane , who had being in the lead from Day one was backtracking from near the top of the pass. Chris Seistrup and Josh Kato were still moving forward . After an amazing breakfast and lots of coffee, and a big departing hug from Kirsten , it was time to climb and see what lays ahead. I was feeling better thankfully , as the next seven hours were tough .

Pretty much around the corner from the Lodge I hit the mud, It was the super sticky mud . Walking /pushing was the only option . I had to constantly scrape the mud from my bike , walking in the grass along the road was the best option for forward motion . It was slow and arduous , with only a few sections that were rideable. I had experience of this Monster Mud from 2017, it was the cause of my Rear Derailleur being ripped off 100kms into the race . After a couple of hours , and a turn off towards Sand pass, the mud improved but before long it changed to Snow, which got deeper and deeper the higher I climbed . What an adventure this race is ! A couple of the touring cyclists and Nate were also pushing over the pass. The snow was well above the cranks and it was hard going . As it turns out Sofiane had trouble on the pass with navigation as well as a snowstorm in freezing conditions . I can totally understand how intense that must have being in the middle of the night .

I pushed on , eventually coming out of the snow , then more mud , before some better roads into Clark. I stopped here briefly at the store to warm up .Not long after leaving the heavens opened and there was cold rain, all my gear was on again as I rode into Steamboat Springs , about 7 hours after leaving Brush mountain Lodge , Only 80kms further back on the route.

I briefly crossed paths with Chris at the service station on the edge of town , I did not know who he was at that stage and did not register in my cold and wet state . I went to Orange Peel Bike shop to get a new chain and have a tune up on my bike. The Mechanic said that there was another cold front forecast , likely to bring more snow to the higher ground . It was time to move. There was another huge deluge of rain as I left town , the river was swollen with the bike track flooded in places . The next stage involved a big climb over Lynx Pass. I had some more annoying GPS device issues in the first couple of hours leaving Steamboat Springs . I was however feeling really good and was climbing well . It was so nice to see some Dotwatchers out to support me along the roadside and their little kid even had a sign with ‘ GO STEVE ‘ on it .

After about 65kms from Steamboat Springs I was over Lynx Pass just after nightfall , the weather was holding out , it was cold though . I was keen to keep moving . Next was another turning point in my race . After descending the Pass I soon came to a river that was in flood and moving swiftly after all the rain and snow of recent days. I could barely make out Bicycle Tyre tracks going down towards the water . The problem I had here was that my headlight was almost flat , so I could not see clearly how deep this river was , all I knew, it was moving fast . My phone light was simply inadequate and my K-Lite was pedal powered so could not use it . I ve crossed many rivers with my fully loaded bike , including some fast moving ones , but this one in the Dark that I was unable to see properly , seemed like a risk . At the time I was not sure if Chris and Josh had crossed, I thought maybe they could be camping close by ? I simply did not know !! I walked up and down the riverbank looking for a place that maybe would be safer . After much contemplation I reluctantly decided to backtrack a bit to a Derelict building I had seen beforehand . At the time this was very frustrating as I really wanted to continue at least until midnight. Even though I was inside the building , it was really cold , I slept sporadically . I got up at first light , I packed up my gear and opened the door . Great ! its snowing . I rode back down to the river, it was still flowing fast , but now in the morning light I could see it was not so deep. I threw my bike over my shoulder and edged into the freezing water . It was maybe up to mid thigh on my long legs . The snow was getting heavier and sticking , the gravel roads became sludgier and slow . This was now a slog . I had to keep moving to stay warm as well as being careful on the snow , as I really did not want to crash again on my bruised body . This Race was getting more epic by the day .

After a tough morning , and close to 5 hours later I decided to go off route to re supply at Kremmling . As I approached town I seen Nate once again riding out , we did not stop , just said Hi . He must have crossed the river last night ?? I required a mental boost , food and drinks helped . I was back on the road heading towards Ute Pass with some more squally showers to deal with . Eventually I reached Silverthorne , and decided to resupply for the next day , I continued on and got a Motel room just off course before Breckenridge . It was just after 9pm , i was shattered , I could not face Boreas Pass tonight . It was so great to dry all my stuff and have a warm shower.

Steve Halligan descending into Clark, Colorado. (Rugile Kaladyte)

I did check my Tracker and was amazed to see a bunch of Dots back at Brush Mountain Lodge . More and more riders, including early pace setter Sofiane were stuck there because of the conditions. The unseasonal snow and mud had dramatically affected this race . Only four TD racers got over Sand Pass that day . I was grateful not to have got caught up , and I was sorry for the riders who did . That would have being frustrating . I noticed Chris had pushed on over Boreas making good time and Nate and Josh looked like they were stopped close by . I set my alarm for 3am.

Day 11 , I was feeling strong and rested.I Rode over the pass in the morning darkness and then down the Gold Dust Trail and on towards Salida . As the morning went on and the sun rose in the sky , I was actually warm for the first time in Days, it was so nice . I really liked this section in 2017 and I was enjoying it again . The favourable wind , sunshine and scenery definitely reinvigorated my spirit . I did not stop in Hartsel or Salida , instead I resupplied at Poncha Springs before tackling Marshall Pass . My legs were good and I loved the epic climb over the Pass , A fast descent and I was at Sargents , the last resupply point on course until Del Norte , some 180 kms further on. As I was outside the store struggling to find place on my bike to fit all my food and drinks, Josh Kato rolled up. I had not seen him since Fernie on day one, so it was cool to catch up again. I rode off as he was packing his bike with supplies. That night about 80 or 90 kms short of Del Norte, I was done, it was a big day , about 330km from Breckenridge. I was so tired here that I just rolled out my mat , and jumped in my sleeping bag with all my gear on, just off the road. This was a mistake , I never got warm properly and sleep was intermittent .

I rolled into Del Norte before 8 am for some service station coffee and Subway to go . I was feeling very average after a poor rest . I climbed Indiana Pass at a pace I felt was sluggish , eventually reaching Platoro for another food stop . I continued into the evening down the beautiful quiet valley before another good climb over Manga Pass. I camped trailside just before the New Mexico Border , this time putting up my tent and taking off my cycling Gear. A much better sleep was had .This had being a tough day.

New Mexico is beautiful , I was enjoying the warmth after the days of cold snowy weather , the scenery was different and spectacular , I was ready for another big ride for Day 13 .I rode through Vallecitos, had a brief drink stop at El Rito and on to Abiquiu for a re supply . I rode into the amazing remote rugged Mesa Polvadera on sunset , another memorable Tour Divide moment. I set up camp about 11pm under a canopy of stars.

The next day at Cuba I found out that Josh had stopped back in Del Norte and had to go to the hospital . He was out of the race to look after his health . A wise move of course , although I was sad that he was no longer in the race . Chris was ahead and Nate was behind me , and racers were now moving away from the hold up at Brush Mountain Lodge. This race was proving to be one of the most dramatic in years.

The next section of the race is all sealed road , just under 200kms between Cuba and Grants . This took me about 10 hours . Unfortunately my timing was not ideal for the afternoon wind that is very unfavourable to a southbound cyclist. I checked into at Motel pretty smashed at Grants after a very testing ride in the headwinds .

Day 15 , I rolled out from Grants before 4 am, it was a beautiful Peaceful morning . After about 60 kms I started feeling pain in my right knee. This got more painful, it felt like stabs of pain from behind my knee going up my thigh. Eventually I had to stop , I sat quietly , I rubbed warming Muscle lotion on and massaged the area . It improved but the ride to Pie Town was uncomfortable . As I got close to Pie Town , my head was busy with ideas of what I should do . Do I rest for a few hours and ice my Knee? Stay the night at the Toaster House and see how it is Tomorrow? I ended up having a fairly long stop at the cafe , enjoying a good breakfast and of course some amazing Pie . I was feeling better , my knee had less pain , off I went heading into the Gila Wilderness .

After about 6 hours and only 85 kms from Pie Town , I could not cycle anymore due to the pain in my knee , it was excruciating , I had walked the previous few kilometres , even this was hard . I decided to stop and camp trailside , it was only after 6pm in the evening . I wondered what had caused this , was it a reaction from the crashes , where I had definitely hit both knees in the falls ?? For now I had to accept this was happening , I massaged more, kept the positive energy moving and rested . I knew now I would not catch Chris , finishing was my main goal . After a massive 14 hour stop I felt it was the time to get on my bike and see what happens. This day was the most challenging of the tour , mentally , physically and emotionally . I got to the Beaverhead Work centre for a welcome rest and cold drinks. After this was tough , I walked the steeper climbs , and rode slowly on the others. I could not commit full pressure to my right pedal , my left leg was doing the majority of the work . I had taken some , ibuprofen , this helped even though I loathe to take medication . Somewhere in The Gila Peter Sandholt caught me , he startled me as I was in my own little world crawling up a climb that would be easy on another day . We chatted briefly and he rode on ahead . After getting through all the hills , I started to feel a bit better . I caught up with Peter again , and we rode down to the Sapillo campground . It was just on nightfall , I was determined to continue and get to Silver City . The CDT alternate route stood in the way . Myself and Peter put our lights on and we started with a steep push up the trail . Peter dropped back shortly afterwards , he had ridden a massive day , starting back near Pie Town .

I arrived into Silver City on my own somewhere not long after midnight , mentally I was feeling good , physically my right knee/ thigh was sore and my left leg was tired from all its extra workload . I knew I required a time out before moving on . Unfortunately or Fortunately ,depending on your point of view, Mc Donalds was one of the only real options to get food at this time . Chris Seistrup had won the race by this time, an incredible ride by him. Nate was moving towards the Mexican border , Peter was in Silver City also , not in Mc Donalds though and Kiwi Tony Le Sueur was closing in also.

I moved on out of Silver city , after maybe 90 minutes refuelling and resting , and was on quiet sealed roads out of town . Just after going over the second climb, I had my first real mechanic issue of the whole race. My chain was not turning smoothly at first , then it completely seized. Why now ? What the FxxK ???

Further investigation revealed the bottom jockey wheel on my Rear Derailleur was damaged and twisted. It looked like something had hit the inner cage and pushed into the jockey wheel . So it was now time to be self sufficient and fix this. Otherwise it would have to be a return to Silver City to get to the bike shop in the morning …….. I took the jockey wheel off , straightened the bent inner cage and put the wheel back on . It did not look good , the bearings in the jockey wheel looked like they could explode out at any moment . Please hold out till the end!!!! The next couple of hours were challenging , I counted 9 times that I had to stop to adjust the jockey wheel so it would turn and hold the chain .. Peter caught me as I was crouched over my bike one time , he stopped and we had a chat . He had being having a power nap along the road and heard me passing then jumped up . He continued on and I would not see him again until the end .

Eventually, I somehow managed to get the jockey wheel spinning and the chain staying on without having to stop every 15 minutes . That was a relief . It was time to chase Peter . Sunrise before reaching Separ was sensational and certainly brightened my mood. Turning right not long after Separ and onto some long straights , the temperature was rising as I rode as fast as I could through this remarkable landscape .Might as well leave it all on the road now.

Riding through Hacita , New Mexico. Photo: Tomas Jonsson

Coming through Hachita , I seen Jeff Sharpe and his photographer friend Tomas at the last turn off taking photos . It was about 80 kms to the finish , I still had some energy for the chase and my rear mech was holding up . There was no sign of the flying Danish man Peter on any of the long straights towards the border and with about 25 kms to go I was suddenly feeling sapped of energy in the heat of the morning sun. These were the longest kilometres of the whole race. Cumulative Fatigue was now taking hold. I contemplated the race as I trudged towards the finish .

It was of course great to get to the end , Peter was sitting in the limited shade of the Border sign, he looked shattered. I was fourth place after 16 Days . It was great to see Jeff again and meet Tomas . Admittedly my emotions were mixed , there was some disappointment at how the final days had panned out. The What ifs ???

The disappointment soon dissipated as I realised that I had somehow reached the finish line through adversity, I had finished this Epic Race much quicker than 2017 , I had being part of an amazing 4,400 km journey with a multitude of memories . I was proud of myself and privileged to be here. The Tour Divide route is an incredible ride , its transformational , its Challenging , its Beautiful and its a personal journey for each who undertakes it. Each and every person will have their own stories to tell, different adventures , disappointments and triumphs …The Tour Divide gives you all this and more …. especially this one 2019 . I will return to Ride the Divide again , im Sure !

The next couple of days were really great , I hung out at Jeff s bike ranch in Hachita . This is a Haven for Tour Divide racers after they finish, to eat , rest and recover and Jeff is super generous and accommodating. Peter was here , Tony and Stefano arrived and Josh Ibbett popped in to say hi . We shared stories as we adjusted to life without getting on the bike every day and riding long distances over rugged terrain.

What a Rollercaster ride ! Thank you Tour Divide!! Pura Vida !

Steve Halligan 16 : 03 : 27